As I have learned, Saturdays in Florence are crowded and busy, so I decided to take another bus ride out of town.

Settignano is a small village on a hillside close to Fiesole. In fact, there is a walk you can take between the two villages. Settignano doesn’t have as many tourists and I think it is quite a bit smaller than Fiesole. Plus, there was nothing in the guide book about it so I had looked online.

I walked around the town a little. Again, very narrow streets with cars going in both directions. Not many shops or restaurants, but I had read rave reviews about one of the restaurants called Caffe Desiderio.

The menu had several starters so I ordered a chickpea crepe with burrata cheese, anchovies and chorizo. After a discussion with owner, Michele, I decided to finally try the lampredotto (tripe.) It is the third stomach of the cow. It was stewed with artichokes in a tomato sauce. I had said I would try it while here and he convinced me it was very good. Hope so since I will be very hungry if not!

I asked which wine and he suggested a Trebbiano from the northern Chianti area. It was a family run winery producing about 40,000 cases a year. Served in very nice wine glasses. Some places serve even the good wine in cheap glasses.

It had turned into a cloudy day. It was a little cool outside but not too bad. Glad I wore my heavier sweater and scarf. I had been very hot on bus though.

The crepe was excellent. It had seemed an odd combination but the flavors went together very well. The chorizo was a hard, dried one that was a little spicy and the anchovies added that extra hit of saltiness. The burrata was creamy and delicious and the crepe a little crispy and good.

The lampredotto was actually very well done. It was seasoned perfectly, and had a tomato based sauce with thinly sliced artichokes, onions, and fresh squeezed lemon. The tripe was tender with a slight chew. No funky smell or flavor at all. I really enjoyed it and ate it all. (After watching so many Andrew Zimmern shows with him saying it tasted a little poopy, I was a bit intimidated.)

What a contrast this place is to Florence. Quieter, a few people walking by and quite a few cars. It was nice to just sit and look around.

The restaurant is a husband and wife team and is open like 12 hours a day. Only the two of them when I was there so not sure if they have help throughout the day or not. He waits and she cooks.

It was getting a little cool outside and I had to use the restroom so I went inside to have my coffee. Inside there were 5 tables, along with the 4 outside. I can’t understand how some of these places can make it they are so small. If not for outside tables they wouldn’t be able to serve many meals. And they didn’t have any kind of covering outside for winter or rain.

There was a leg of ham in a contraption for hand carving.

After asking for my check, he brought me the check and a free grappa for digestion. Very nice experience and I am glad I spent the day in Settignano.

Back in Florence it was just packed everywhere. I had thought since it was around 4:00 I might be able to get in to see David, but the place was mobbed once again. So, I headed back to the apartment.

Later, I went to Cantinetta dei Verazzano’s to get a bite to eat. I was going to have the last of the soup but just didn’t feel like it. Plus, before I left Seattle I had seen a place that had chickpea focaccia stuffed with various things. It turned out to be the place Megan had taken me to for a ‘croissant’ The place was hopping but I was seated in the ‘breakfast area with another single woman and a couple.

I ordered the cecina (chickpea focaccia) with prosciutto and tartufo. Can’t get enough of these truffles! It was topped with a little cream and pomegranate seeds. Fabulous! Courtney and I are going to have to get back on the chickpea flour train again and do some different things with it!

Verazzano’s obviously is a wine producer too. I ordered a glass of their rosé. He brought the wine glass with ice and an extra glass to pour it into so it was nice and cold, then poured a taste. Very nice.

I also ordered a salad with gorgonzola and walnuts. The basket of bread had 3 different types, one was a cheesy focaccia which was the best.

I went home and went to bed not long after since I had woken at about 3:00 AM and had not gotten any more sleep the night before.

Tomorrow, off to Paris on the train!