l’Art des Amis

I wanted to share photos of the apartment which they appropriately called l’Art des Amis, The Art of Friends. Don and Frankie have many friends who are artists so are displaying their work along with pieces they have purchased here.

When you walk in there is a large foyer with a good sized closet for clothes, etc., a small room that is their privé. That is a room that can be locked away from guests to keep their personal things like extra clothes, tools, etc.

My new phone has panoramic photos so it made it great for taking pictures of the rooms!

Foyer looking towards bathroom and kitchen

Foyer looking towards bathroom and kitchen

They had all the floors redone when they bought it as well as the kitchen. The foyer tiles were purchased at a tile place outside the city somewhere. Their contractor took them to find them, then Don did the design. It almost looks like a carpet at first.

The kitchen is small but they have provided all the conveniences you could want: An espresso/coffee maker. Microwave/convection oven. 4-burner stove. Fridge and freezer. And a dishwasher. A combination blender and food processor! Plus they have many utensils, dishes, glasses, pots and pans, and other cooking vessels. There is a small table that has a fold down leaf that can be moved into the foyer for company dinner. And a door leading out to a terrace.

Kitchen with all the fixings!

Kitchen with all the fixings!

There is a small room with a toilet and minuscule sink off the foyer. I guess that is a typical french setup with the shower/tub in another room. Theirs is off the bedroom. It makes it nice for when they have guests. All the rooms have doors that close for privacy and everyone has access to the toilet during the night.

The toilet room

The toilet room

The bedroom is quite large and has a lovely bed with ironwork and curtains. There are french doors that open onto another terrace.

The bedroom

The bedroom

And the bathroom with both a shower and a tub are off the bedroom. There is a storage area with a beaded curtain with a rack that holds towels, the vacuum, mops, ironing board, etc. There is also a combination washer/dryer under the cabinet. Which is very nice to have. The dryer doesn’t get it totally dry but there is a drying rack that can be put on the terrace to complete the drying process.

The bathroom

The bathroom

The terraces were one of the reasons they bought this apartment. Many of the apartments don’t have them and it makes for a nice extension to the living space and a pleasant place to sit in the sun, as I have been doing the last hour or so. The view is towards the Mediterranean.

The terrace view

The terrace view

So, there you have it, my French home away from home for a week!

Au Revoir!

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First (Mis)Adventure

I decided to go the the market that supposedly is more local than the Cours Saleya Marché which is right across from the Promenade.

I got ready and was going to head out at around 11:30 because the market closed at 1:30. I went to open that door and it would not budge. I looked and the security lock on the top was unlocked and there was no lock on the lower door handle area.

The Door

The Door

I pushed down, pulled hard, and was afraid I might break it! Uh, oh. Don and Frankie had locked it from the outside and there was no key lock on the inside! I start to freak out! They are on a 10 hour flight to Seattle and no way to contact them.

OK, think…I have wine and there is a little food so I won’t starve and can get drunk and go to sleep, ha, ha. I pulled out the Welcome book by the people who manage the apartment and try to find a emergency phone number. No such luck. I also knew they were in Florida and it was probably only 4 in the morning or so.

I look at their website online and try calling the number there, but don’t think I did it right because a recording came on before I finished putting in all the numbers. Of course, it was in French so I just hung up.

Okay, I’ll send them an email and wait for them to wake up. So, I did. I also had tried calling Don and texting them.

I went back to the door and started looking closely at it. Got my flashlight and a knife and slid it along the crack and, sure enough, there was a bolt. I looked at the door handle and there are two screws. I knew where the tools were so got that open and got a screw driver out. I took the 2 screws out and pulled and the handle came off.

Inside was a key lock. Yay! I got the key and turned it, click click. I put the handle back on to open the door. It wouldn’t open. What?!

I took the handle off again and remembered you have to turn the locks around twice to make them lock or unlock. Sure enough, it unlocked. I put the handle back on and opened the door. Hallelujah, I’m saved!

I got my things together again and took off.

Found my way to the tram, no problem. Took it to the Libération stop and could see the market all around the tracks. By then it was after 1:00 and many of the stalls were packing it up. I did find a cheese place and got a nice chevré with ash. She started talking rapidly in French and I was like, I don’t speak French, and she smiled and just went on talking and wrapped up my cheese.

Then I bought some grapes and a couple of apples. I said, Bonjour, and kind of caught what I thought to be around a number 8, so gave her a 10€. Said, Mercí boucoup, au revoir, and walked away and headed back. I decided to walk all the way and explore. I found a nice patisserie and bought a baguette .95€) and continued on hoping to find some charcuterie. No such luck. Many places were closed this afternoon.

I needed a couple of other things and saw a big supermarket, Casino. I tried to go into it but they close at 12:45 on Sundays. All the markets I went by were closed. Oh, well.

My first purchases alone in Nice

My first purchases alone in Nice

I came back and had my breakfast/lunch of cheese, baguette, and fruit. Wine, too, of course.

Guess I will relax and read this afternoon then maybe find somewhere for dinner. Or, there is still a little pizza in the Fridge that the guys had bought. Might have to try that. It looks to be just a cheese pizza though so I might have to wait until tomorrow so I can get some goodies to add to it!

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Alone on the French Riviera

Here I am sitting on the terrace, drinking my coffee in the sun, updating my blog, on the French Riviera.

View towards the sea from the terrace

View towards the sea from the terrace

Don and Frankie left today about 4AM. No, I didn’t get up to see them off. Thought about it but it might have delayed their departure. At least, that is what I told myself.

It was probably around a year ago when we found out that Darrel had pancreatic cancer and would most likely be dead in a year that I decided to come stay at Don and Frankie’s apartment in Nice. I figured I would need a little restorative time by myself. People asked my why I didn’t have someone come with me, but I think I need this time.

However, it was so wonderful that Don and Frankie decided to come and were here to meet me. It made the transition into the strange, wonderful world of France much easier. They have been taking French for years and, especially Frankie, talk and understand it well. However, pretty much everywhere we have gone the people have spoken enough English that I don’t think I will have a problem.

After I got up this morning, I made the bed, did a little cleaning, and started washing sheets first thing. I think this will be kind of a lazy day for me. Not sure how much is open on Sundays anyway.

Yesterday was a little quieter too. Don and Frankie had to pack and get things ready for their departure. It isn’t like just leaving a hotel for them since they own the place.

We walked to the promenade and had a quick lunch at Le Dolce Moments (sweet moments). Frankie and I had paninis and Don had a Croque Monsieur. I didn’t write down the names of the paninis, but mine was excellent. Serrano ham, chevre, tomato. Don’s was way better than the one he had the day before. You could tell just by looking.

Panini on the Prom'

Panini on the Prom’

Next up was the Flower Parade. This is the last weekend of the Nice Carnivale celebration. The floats all had lots of flowers and the theme had to do with music, so all but one (the big bug) were musical instruments or something to do with music. There were pretty women on each throwing mimosas (the flower, not the drink!) They must have denuded mimosa trees all across the Riviera!

Big mechanical bug that has been sitting in Place Massena.  Arms and mouth moved.  People were doing acrobatics hanging from the arms.

Big mechanical bug that has been sitting in Place Massena. Arms and mouth moved. People were doing acrobatics hanging from the arms.

Flower Float

Flower Float

Horn Blower Balloon

Horn Blower Balloon

Then we walked around town a little. Stopped and shared a bottle of wine. Came back to the apartment. Don had to hurry to a store, where he had been trying to get another lamp for the living room, to pay for it and arrange for their service to get it and put it up.

Frankie and I went to meet him at a restaurant they wanted to try. We went to the tram station and it was closed due to another parade that evening. So, we started walking. Managed to catch the tram a couple of stations away and found Don. The restaurant could fit us in. So, we started looking for another place to eat.

We ended up in Old Town at Lu Fran Calin, another Nicoise specialty restaurant. Frankie and I had the La Suprema de Volaille Farci aux Cepes with Sauce Moutard a l’Ancienne. Chicken breast stuffed with mushroom with a mustard sauce. They brought out a huge plate of food, with things on it not listed on the menu. We finally decided the things that looked like French Fries were actually Panisses, fried chickpea dough.

La Suprema de Volaille Farci aux Cepes

La Suprema de Volaille Farci aux Cepes

Then there were two things that had bread crumbs on top but soft insides. I thought there was chard and rice, and Frankie caught the zucchini in it. When we asked the waitress she said we were correct and they also had egg to hold it together. I am sure it is using up leftover risotto rice and possible other things, just like a house wife would do with leftover. It was excellent, whatever it was called, and I would like to find a recipe for something like it. Frankie has a Nicoise cookbook at home so he will look.

Don had Tofies alla Crudaoila. Homemade twisty pasta with fresh crushed tomatoes, pesto, parmesan and pine nuts. He said it was very good, too.

Tofies alla Crudaiola

Tofies alla Crudaiola


So we lucked into another good restaurant.

We came home and they got showered and ready to leave early in the morning. We said our farewells and went to sleep. At least I did and I am hoping they did!

The adventure continues alone…

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Gardens and Parties

Today we started at a small cafe and had quiche lorraine and croque monsieur for ‘brunch’ along with a coffee. The quiche was very good with a nice flaky, buttery crust.

Frankie had helped me (actually he did it) make my train reservation to Florence earlier so they took me to the train station to pick it up. It helped orient me to where and what to do when I get there next week.

Next, we took a bus to St. Jean-Cap Ferrat to the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild and Gardens. The gardens were beautifully done. You followed a meandering path through different gardens – Sevres, Spanish, French, Florentine, Stone, Japanese, Provencal, Exotic (mostly cacti), and Rose (no roses in bloom yet, darn.)
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The Villa itself is gorgeous outside and had rooms with some of the original furnishings and other treasures displayed. Looking out from the upstairs terrace you could see the musical fountains which display every 20 minutes.

The rear of the Villa

The rear of the Villa

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Musical Fountains – Jeux d’eaux musicaux

We didn’t get back to the apartment until around 5:30 and we were all rather tired from lots of walking and bumping around on the bus. The buses don’t have many seats so we stood both ways and had to really hang onto the rails on the way back because the driver was very aggressive with her braking!

Dinner was at il Vicolletto. There are a lot of ‘Italian’ restaurants in Nice since it was part of Italy until about 150 years ago.

I had the Orecchietti Con Salccicia e Porcini (pasta with mushrooms, sausage, and red sauce), Don had Suprema di Pollo all Parmigiana (chicken parmesan), and Frankie had Linguine alle Vongole (linguine with clams.) It was all very good, but I didn’t think the service was a good as we have had.

After dinner we headed over to the very first Lou Queernaval. It was a gay, family-friendly parade and party. Confetti and streamers were shot into the air looking like colorful fireworks. Loud music playing. Not that many floats since it was the first year. It was lots of fun!

Float

Float

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We walked back to the apartment and sat around talking and laughing until about 1:00 AM. It was a really interesting and fun-filled day.

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Fabulous Day in Nice!

Today we walked down to the Promenade to the tourist office and bought tickets for the Flower Parade on Saturday that is part of the Carnivale celebration here.

After walking along the promenade for a ways, we then walked through a market that had lots of flowers, some vegetables and other food stuffs, like a very small Pike Place for you Seattleites.

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We went up through Old Town to a ‘fast food’ place called Cafe Rene’. There were glass cases with various prepared foods and then at the end of the line a huge round cast iron griddle of socca. There was quite a line of people waiting and Don and Frankie said it was like that all day and into the night. One of the best places for ‘fast food’ in Nice.

Socca is like a flatbread made of chickpea flour, water, olive oil, and salt. Courtney and I got into making it last year when Darrel was sick and supposed to be cutting back on white flour products. It is crispy on the outside and soft on the inside. So, I had been looking forward to having it here!

We got several small plates of food. Fried eggplant (fried in breadcrumbs), small pieces of fried fish (more of a beer batter), a small pizza with cheese, olives and an anchovy, and socca. The total bill was 13 euros and we couldn’t eat it all. There was seating outside along the building and a small covered cafe area with a bar.

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At the Cafe Rene' for Socca and wine.

At the Cafe Rene’ for Socca and wine.

Next, we walked to the port area and looked at the boats and yachts. It had a lot of great apartments all around the area, and on one side had several cafes. We stopped at one and had glasses of wine (of course.) Then walked back a different way to the apartment.

We sat around a few hours resting and all of us on our devices checking mails and Facebook and sharing fun things with each other.

We had made dinner reservations during our walk through Old Town at one of Don and Frankie’s favorite restaurants. It is a family run place with mom, dad, and their three gorgeous sons. The are well known for the Nicoise specialties, Restaurant Acchiardo.

Dinner on Thursday.  Great food and fabulous service

Dinner on Thursday. Great food and fabulous service

We started with a Nicoise specialty entree of Petit Farcis Nicois which was vegetables (pepper, onion, eggplant, tomato, and zucchini) stuffed with a mixture of ground veal or beef. Very tasty.

I had Daube with spinach gnocchi. The daube is very slow cooked, tender beef in a wine sauce similar to pot roast. It was a huge plate and I could only eat about half.

Don had his favorite, Escalope Milanese. A thinly pounded, breaded piece of veal with lemon and frites (french fries.)

And Frankie had Dourade Provencal. Sea bream in a tomatoey sauce with Haricots Verts (green beans.) It was funny because when he pronounced it in French, I was like, what was that? It sounds totally different than the way I always thought it was pronounced!

We had two bottles of wine with the meal, a house brand of Rose’. And we were getting a little giggly by the end of those.

Frankie and I ended the meal with an espresso and Don had his favorite, ice cream topped with espresso.

There was another couple that came in and were sitting a little way from us who started a conversation with us. After shouting across a couple of times, Don went over to chat with them. Frankie said they must be Australian (accent) because only Americans and some other non-French people would yell at each other across a restaurant like that. It was pretty funny. They owned an apartment in Old Town and spent 6 months there and traveled the world the rest of the time. Hmmm, maybe I should do that!

We stopped at a really interesting bar for a night cap. It had very cool decor. Paintings on the wall up by the ceiling of scenes from India, fans that were half-circles that went up and down, not around interspersed with oil lamps that had been electrified. Very cool. Lots of laughter at our table!

The bar

The bar

Carnivale decorations

Carnivale decorations

A statue of Apollo in a fountain surrounded by horses.  It is not running now while the carnivale celebration is going on.

A statue of Apollo in a fountain surrounded by horses. It is not running now while the carnivale celebration is going on.

Funny story about the Apollo statue – it was taken down in the 50s for about 30 years because his balls were too big. Some of the local men politicians probably were jealous!

Came back to the apartment and had more drinks (not that we needed them by this point) and chatted for a couple of hours.

Today is cloudy and cool, darn it! I think we are going to venture into another town nearby. And tonight we got to the gay carnivale celebration.

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European Vacation Begins!

So, I tried 3 different times to post yesterday and kept losing it for some reason! So here goes:

Courtney dropped me off at the airport around 11:00 and had told me Delta left from the S terminal. So I breezed through TSA, another TSA Pre-check on my boarding pass, and took the train to the S terminal. By boarding pass didn’t have a gate but it had an S4 on it so I went there. Huge crowd boarding a plane to somewhere in the States, so I went to the bar. I headed back a good hour plus before the plane was scheduled to take off and S4 wasn’t going to Charles de Gaulle (I had looked on the departure boards but couldn’t find my flight.)

So, I went to ask at the Delta information desk and there were 2 agents helping one person. I finally left and went back to the departure board, I had heard something that made me think, Duh, don’t look for Charles de Gaulle airport look for Paris. Yep, there it was going out of the A gates. Back on the train and hurrying to A12 wh

ich is, of course, the furthest one away.

Got my seat assignment, I was flying standby on Courtney’s benefit so don’t know whether I will get on until the last minute. I was in an aisle seat in Economy Comfort (seats go back a little further) and the seat next to me was empty. Actually, the whole plane was pretty empty, probably not even half full!

Even with the seat and plane empty, it was a looooong flight. I watched a movie, read a book, listened to a book on tape, tried sleeping (didn’t), and ate. They fed us like the whole time. I was quite surprised!

Landed early in Paris but I still only had an hour and a half to get to next gate and it is a huge airport. I found where I was s

Sun over Paris (before the rain)

Sun over Paris (before the rain)

upposed to go and realized I still needed to print my boarding pass. I stopped at a ticket kiosk and tried everything but no reservation. It said I needed to go to a ticket counter.

I asked a security guy where and he said I had to go back the way I had just come. Well, he wasn’t entirely right, but I managed to find one and stood in line. When I finally made it to the desk, the woman couldn’t find it either. She tried calling someone and we had a little mix up over how I was flying. She looked again and finally said she found it and checked me in and printed off my boarding pass. By that time it was 8:55 and I had about 10 minutes until boarding.

I hurried back to the security checkpoint at 2F and made it through security okay. Then, and only then, did I have to go through Border Police (Customs/Immigration), which I found totally weird. I could have left the airport in Paris and never have gone through!

There were 2 long lines coming from 2 different entryways into Border Police and there was one lone border agent! I couldn’t believe it. I am thinking there is no way I am going to make it to the plane on time. I was about 10 back and another agent came on and started taking the other line. Then I was about 3 back and 2 more agents came on and they also started taking the other line! I made it through – all he did was take my passport, scan it while talking to other agent, and barely even glanced at me. No questions about what I was bringing into the country (I did have some cheese in my bag.)

Off I ran to my gate. I got there all sweaty and got onto the plane in time. Whew!

It had been cloudy and rainy in Paris but it cleared up about halfway to Nice and was a beautiful sunny view of the Riviera and Alps as we flew in. The airport is on a little ‘platform’ built into the Riviera. Very short runways with water all around.

The Alps

The Alps

Don and Frankie had rented a little electric car and were waiting at the airport to pick me up. We drove to their apartment along the promenade that runs for miles around the little bay of the Riviera. Probably a name for the area but I am not sure what it is.

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Their apartment is on the top floor of a seven story building. Maybe around 30 apartments. It is quite large for France standards. Large entry way. The bedroom is big with a large shower/tub room off of it. A small kitchen. A nice living room. The bedroom, kitchen, and living room all have a narrow terrace with small table, and 3 sets of different chairs on them so you can sit in the sun facing the sea to the South. They have made me feel very welcome!

We walked down to the promenade and had some wine at a little restaurant, Queenie. Then we walked around a little bit, went to the grocery store for supplies – wine and spirits, sparking water, and croissants! Then went back to the apartment for quiet time. I hadn’t slept for about 24 hours but couldn’t nap.

We went to dinner at a lovely little restaurant called Comptoir du Marche’ in Old town. Started with an apertif, Kir Royale. Had an entree (appetizer for us Americans) of a pork terrine. I had Foie de Veau with an onion confit (veal liver cooked perfectly!) Don had magret de cunard (duck breast – very adventuresome for Don.) And Frankie had Joue de Cochon en cocotte (pork cheeks in a cast iron pot with polenta. Frankie is a more adventurous eater, like me!) We shared a bottle of the local Provence white wine, which was very nice. Wine is cheap over here!

We ended the meal sharing a cheese plate with 4 cheeses. Very good, of course.

My first meal in France. When I told the waitress, she added that it was also the best!

We stopped at a small bar and had another glass of wine and then headed back to the apartment. I had been up for about 30 hours at the point and was very tired. I slept pretty good for a little over 8 hours and am feeling refreshed today.

It is another beautiful day and we will be heading out soon for a day of traipsing around the beautiful city of Nice.

 

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Sushi!

Courtney and I went out on this rainy, grey evening for sushi at Daimonji Sushi and Grill in Georgetown. I have had a craving for sushi for days since I saw a place while driving around in Burbank!

We sat at the sushi bar and told Alex (the sushi chef) we were at his mercy or, Omakase, the only way to have sushi. You get the chef’s specials and what is freshest and best.

He provided an amazing array of dishes. Starting with sake clams, then a fresh tuna salad, we went on to have oysters on the half shell, a plate of sashimi, then a plate of nigiri.

I had specifically asked to have monk fish liver, which was on their special board. I have heard about it and always wanted to try it. Alex had almost tried to warn us off of it, saying it was fishy and a lot of people didn’t like it. Boy, am I glad we tried it. It was luscious and not fishy at all. So good! Courtney even liked it, but only after the second bite. He said he had kind of psyched himself out of it (maybe because of Alex’s comments) but really liked it once he gave it a chance.

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We also had a couple of special rolls made for us by Alex. We were pretty full and done but told Alex how the monk fish liver was our favorite. He said he had a little left and would give it to us since we liked it so much. It was like a special dessert just for us.

It was a wonderful evening of special food for us and I can’t wait to go back again. I just wish I had thought to take more photos of the wonderful, beautiful displays of fresh and tasty fish.

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Home again and Shrimp and Grits!

I made it home on Wednesday with no problems. All 3 flights that day had open seats so I decided to leave on the 11:00 flight so I wouldn’t have to get up too early!

My friend, Trish, picked me up at the airport and even had a container of chicken noodle soup for me. What a nice surprise and the soup totally hit the spot!

I did a little shopping and then started going through the tax documents. Today I was sorting medical bills and reciepts because there will probably be enough for a deduction. What a nightmare. I have always done them myself but this year, with Darrel’s death, there are things I am not sure of so will get a CPA to help.

Last night I made Shrimp and Grits for dinner. One of my favorites! Of course, the spot shrimp we get out of Puget Sound is good in any way.

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Grits are an easy, whole grain food similar to polenta. I bought mine online from the Palmetto Farms in South Carolina after Trader Joe’s quit carrying them. They are White Stone Ground Grits.

For the shrimp, I sauté onions, red peppers, garlic, and jalapenos in olive oil. After they are translucent, I add a can of diced tomatoes (I actually use home canned roma tomatoes in a pint and a half jar.) I don’t add the shrimp until a few minutes before serving so they don’t get overcooked.

Shrimp and Grits

Grits:
1 1/2 cups of Chicken Broth
1 1/2 cups of milk
1 tsp salt
3/4 cups Stone Ground White Grits
1 cup shredded cheese

Bring broth, milk, and salt to a boil. Whisk in grits. Lower heat to simmer and cover. Cook for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Stir in cheese and keep warm.

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Shrimp:

1 medium onion, chopped
1-2 red peppers, chopped
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 jalapeno, chopped
1-2 cans diced tomatoes (depending on how much you are making
1 -2 lbs fresh shrimp, shelled (I used 50 large shrimp)
Salt and pepper to taste.

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Sauté vegetables in 2 tablespoons of olive oil until translucent. Add tomatoes with juice. Cook until thickened and juice has evaporated. Add shrimp and cook for about 3 minutes. Do not overcook shrimp.

To serve, put grits in bowl and cover with shrimp sauce.

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Add tabasco as needed.

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Burbank

Today would have been Darrel’s 61st birthday. Hard to believe he didn’t make it past 60.

I left Palm Desert around noon and drove straight to Burbank. I can’t get on a flight until tomorrow so got a room at the retro Safari Inn. Very 50’s!

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Had a fun time with Sandy and Dave last night. We went to a kind of upscale Mexican restaurant then they drove me down El Paseo with all the ritzy shops. The avenue was lined with palm trees, of course, and they had white lights around the trunks. Very pretty. We then went back to the condo and talked.

So, almost at the end of the trip. Hopefully I can get home tomorrow.

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Palm Desert

Yesterday was a bit of a hell day of driving. Left Peoria around 10:00 AM. Set the GPS in the car with the address in Palm Desert and it immediately said there was a major accident around Indio. Hmmm, okay, that is like 4 hours away.

Drove and listened to my book again. I was about 15 miles from my destination when the traffic came to a standstill. The sign said it was a 3 hour delay. There was a rest area right by the sign that was packed. Tractor trailers were lining the shoulder of the road. I had less than a quarter of a tank of gas. WTF? 4 hours and they weren’t able to clear the road yet?

Luckily, there was a turnaround just yards in front of me and I took it and headed East again. I messed around with the GPS and plugged in Detour and, guess what? It took me back about 9 miles and I was able to detour around the whole mess. Didn’t even run out of gas!

Got to my sister-in-law, Sandy’s, rental place in Palm Desert about 3:00. Nice place. Eclectic 50’s buildings. 80+ degrees out but almost cool in the house.

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Had a nice time visiting with them last night. Slept really well. (Thanks, Mar and Gar, but a real bed was a good change from the motor home table/bed.)

Am planning on heading West sometime today and spending the night somewhere closer to the airport. Looks like I should be able to make a flight Wednesday. Today’s flights were all oversold with those other Seahawk fans trying to get home! Saw lots of them on the road yesterday!

GO HAWKS! Yes, I still believe!

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