Friday was a fun day! I met Megan deAngelo at the Piazza della Signoria. Megan is a 30-year old woman orignally from Western Massachusetts who had been living in Florence for 7 years. She recently married and they are moving to Boston in April. She was a very delightful companion for a day of too much eating! Again!
We started by walking around the corner from my apartment to a little cafe, Verrazzano’s, for a pastry and capuccino. It was before 11:00 so it is okay to still have a capuccino. They have ‘rules’ here for drinking them! We chatted a bit and got to know one another a little before heading to the Mercato Centrale San Lorenzo.
I had been a little worried that it might be the kind of ‘tour’ that took you to places to sample olive oils, basalmic vinegars, etc. and then were expected to purchase something. Since I only have carry-on luggage this would not be possible. Luckily, it wasn’t that way at all!
We stopped at a Mozzarella shop on the 2nd floor of the market and she purchased 2 different types of bufula mozzarella, one smoked and one not. She told me about visiting a bufula farm in the South where the farmer believes that the happier the cows are the better their milk. He has massage machines, plays classical music for them, and I don’t know what else. She said he refuses to export his products and the only way you can get them is by going there. He doesn’t have any problems selling all his products to people.
We didn’t spend much time at the market since I had already been there. Besides helping do these tours, she also works for one of the owners of a huge winery conglomerate. They have multiple wineries in Italy and one in Napa, Antinori. We stopped by there so I could see the building and she picked up her mail.
Antinori also owned a little cafe and wine shop down the street. The cafe sells little sandwiches mostly made with truffle paste, Tartufo. She bought six of the sandwiches, 3 different kinds, and we each had a glass of prosecco. It was the kind of place I would have never wandered into by myself. The tartufo was excellent and if they would have had a 3 ounce jar of it I would have definitely bought some!
Next we went to another sandwich shop, Ino, where she had arranged for a cheese tasting. There was a plate of cheese and one of small open-faced sandwiches with a variety of toppings like anchovy, ricotta, and olive and truffle spread. This was at 12:30 and we had lunch reservations at 1:30! I am sorry to say that we ended up leaving quite a bit on the plates. As we were leaving a couple of Italian women that were just sitting down by us were quite jealous and thought the place only sold sandwiches. Megan explained that if they asked they would do the same for them. She offered them the rest of ours, but I don’t think they took her up on it.
This area is more known for their sheep cheeses, especially pecorino romano, as the cows raised here are beef cows. The platter had a couple of kinds of pecorino, parmesan, a pistachio cheese and saffron cheese. I tried all of them, of course, I love cheese and they were excellent.
We headed to the trattoria where she had made reservations for lunch. At that point, I didn’t think I would be able to eat much of anything. Vini e Vecchia Sapori is a family run, very small restaurant. Mama does the cooking, dad is usually at the counter making salads and slicing meats, and two sons do the waiting. I am sorry to say I forgot to take any pictures!
Megan ordered an artichoke salad for us to share. It was raw artichoke on arugula with olive oil and thinly shaved cheese. I had never had raw artichoke before and it was very good.
I ordered the papparadelle with duck ragù. Papparedelle is wide pasta noodles and these were homemade. The duck ragù was very tasty, but I couldn’t eat it all, not surprisingly.
She had Baccalà in tomato sauce. Baccalà is salt cod. Very common here on Fridays and a dish that she favors.
It was a fun lunch and the people all were enjoying themselves and the ‘staff’ were all laughing and making jokes. Great place! The restaurant is very hard to get into without a reservation and they always have a sign on the door saying no tables. Megan has been coming there regularly for years and was on a first name basis with the brothers.
After lunch we walked to get gelato at Carapina – always room for dessert, right? This is a very small one where the owner makes it himself and tries unusual flavors. We sampled one that was made with mozzarella cheese. He also pairs non-traditional flavors like pecorino and Vin Santo, gorgonzola and strawberry (which I might have tried if it was available that day.) It also isn’t one where there are huge mounds of gelato piled up all day.
I ended up being fairly traditional and got coffee and pistachio. I am sure I will go back again before I leave to try something else and to get pictures, since, once again, I forgot!
We parted at the piazza where we met. She wants to make a West Coast trip at some point so I told her to contact me and I would show her around Seattle.
It was a really fun day and Megan was an interesting, easy
to talk to person.








The cheese was really good, but am not sure it was from happy cows. She just told me the story about her visit while we were sampling the cheese. Definitely the best mozzarella I have had!
Inquiring minds want to know…how was the buffalo cheese? Did you taste the happy cow difference?
So, I’m sure you are planning a travelogue get together when you get home to show us pictures and let us know what some of these interesting dishes are!!!!!
Girl, you make me drool!!! Glad you are enjoying.
Your vacation is my vacation too! I’m gaining weight just looking at your exquisite foods. Maybe I should quit licking my screen! Keep up the informative blog. Judy
It all sounds heavenly. If you really like something, ship it home. 😉
Logan says yum for the pistachio cheese.
Well, Logs had always been my kind of kid! Except for the hot stuff! Go figure!
pistachio cheese and the pistachio gelato … sound wonderful …..actually all sounds wonderful
A mozzarella store! Imagine! And the sandwiches looked fabulous not to mention the pistachio cheese. What wonderful food experiences you are having. Good thing it’s necessary to walk miles to get to these places. Your guide sounds delightful. Keep sending blogs!
It has all been great. Yes, a store devoted to mozzarella and not jut any buy bufala!!
Get the secret for making Gelato! Stuff in US is not the same.
That sounds like a great way to learn, and probably a lot less expensive than mine!
I don’t remember buying mozzarella dI bufula anywhere but a farm north of Napoli. I learned to cook some of my favorite Italian dishes at Ristorante al Risatta run by a husband and wife team, Franco and Maria. After ordering my meal Franco would take me to the kitchen and Maria would show me how to prepare it. Wine was served in a chicken pitcher which was unique to southern Italy. A usual meal was pasta, swordfish, bread and wine.