Wednesday was a very pleasant day, sunny, warm with a slight breeze. I actually saw people in shorts (short shorts must be coming back, or at least here) and shirtsleeves. There were still a lot of people bundled up in their winter coats, though!

I have been having problems with my iPad not charging properly and it also isn’t holding a charge as long as it used to. I decided to get a new charging cord as the one I have was getting worn. In the morning, I headed to a store I was told about to purchase one and actually found it with no trouble!

Then I decided to walk to the Piazza San Marco to see if I could figure out how to take the bus to Fiesole. Again, I was able to find it with no problem. Maybe I am finally figuring the place out – just in time to leave.

Convent of San Marco

The Piazza in front of the Convent of San Marco is a big bus stop and I saw the #7 Fiesole bus there so am planning to go tomorrow.

I went back to the apartment and plugged in the iPad. It didn’t work at first but I switched plugs around and it started charging. Yay! I would be lost without it here!

I had a lunch reservation at 1:00 so hung around until about noon then wandered towards the Pitti Palace where the restaraunt, Gola e Cantina, was located. I browsed the jewelry stores on the Ponte Vecchio first. I have been thinking of buying myself a piece of jewelry. Maybe an amethyst ring since that was Darrel’s birthstone and cheaper than a ruby, which is mine.

The restaurant was just opening when I got there but there was actually another woman already seated outside. I wasn’t first! I had already decided to go with the tasting menu as the restaurant is also a wine bar and the brothers who own it are very knowledgeable about wine.

I made my choices and my waiter asked what wines I would like to try and I told him, he was the expert so he could give me whatever he wanted.

He started me off with a sparkling wine made in the champagne style. No added sugar. Very dry. Very good.

My antipasto was Tartare Battuta al Coltello di Vacche di Razza Calvanina. Hand cut beef tartare with shaved 24 month aged Parmesan. The tartare was very good, but needed a little salt or a little more Parmesan to add saltiness.

Beef Tartare with Aged Parmesan

The next wine was a Pinot Grigio that had been left for a month with the skins and seeds so was a brownish-reddish instead of white. He said that most Pinot Grigio’s had been ruined because they were being made to sell quickly. This was aged at least 2 years. Much more flavor than any I have had. Very nice ‘nose’ slight cherry fragrance.

Pinot Grigio

Service very good and attentive. He was very friendly and explained the wines very thoroughly and enthusiastically.

For my Primo Piatto I had Triangoli di Burrata con Ragù Bianco di Maiale al Finocchietto. Homemade ravioli filled with burrata cheese in a ragù of pork and fennel seeds. The ravioli was excellent. And the pork and fennel seed ragù was fantastic and went well with the cheese in the ravioli. Probably the most flavorful dish I have had in Europe. The wine was a Sangiovese, barrel-aged 2 years.

Burrata filled Ravioli with Pork and Fennel Seed Ragù

I ordered the cheese instead of dessert. With it he excitedly told me about a Brunello aged 5 years in the barrel and 10 in the bottle. They had done a barrel tasting and bought it up. There were around 2000 bottles and only 500 left.

It was most excellent and it went extremely well with the cheeses. Of course, my favorite cheeses were the two strong ones! There was also some pickled onion that wasn’t vinegary, more sweet, but very good. One of the stinky cheeses had a sweet wine reduction drizzled over it.

Cheese Plate Finale

It was interesting because both people on each side of me also ordered the tasting menu and got different wines than me but the same as each other. They had a different waiter.

The one couple also ordered the cheese plate and only got 3 cheeses and a sweeter white wine. While the other couple ordered the dessert and got the same white wine.

I think they must have a standard pour for the tasting menu, but since I put myself in the waiter’s hands, I got something different. And, I believe better!

Even though I had already had my 4 wines, he brought out a 1980 red that was great. I didn’t remember to write down what kind of grapes in that one. But, I still liked the Brunello better.

One of the best dining experiences I have had here or anywhere.

The apartment owner had emailed me last weekend about a lecture at the British Institue by British journalist and author, John Hooper. He had just published a book about Italy so I decided to attend. I had checked the website and it was at 6:00 PM at the British Institute.

I left before 5:30 wanting to make sure I found it and got there before it became too crowded. I didn’t have as much luck finding it but finally did. I went up to the 4th floor where the Institute was located and found out it was actually at an Institute library a half mile or so away!

I took off and found it. Went up to the second floor, walked in, and it was standing room only in a room outside where he was actually speaking. I stood there for a few minutes but couldn’t really hear him so left.

I was fairly close to a restaurant Francesca had told me about that had a fixed price menu for dinner. I found it by about 6:40 and was, you guessed it, the first person there. My reception was not very good. A woman had been standing there and I asked if they were serving dinner (the website said it started at 6:00.) She nodded and indicated I could sit anywhere.

From the kitchen I could hear someone either chopping or pounding something loudly. Then she wrapped a kerchief around her head and went back there. Next, there was a loud argument going on between her and a man that had been doing the pounding. They must have been married!

Trattoria Georgio

He came out and gave me the menu and a bottle of water. The meal included water, 1/4 bottle wine, a first and second course, and vegetable side, all for 14€.

When he returned to take my order I asked what he suggested and he said tutte- everything – not helpful. So I ordered the gnocchi with Gorgonzola sauce and walnuts, roast rabbit, and Chard for a side.

The gnocchi was good but didn’t taste much like Gorgonzola. It was more like just a cream sauce with a little finely chopped walnuts.

Gnocchi with Gorgonzola Sauce and Walnuts

I think this was the biggest kitchen I have seen yet! And a nice clean bathroom. No hand towels or dryer though.

By about 7:00 the place was hopping. Two more women had come in to work the kitchen and another man came in as waiter. Another interesting thing is that he barely talked to me or another two women (one of whom spoke Italian.) But a table of three came in and he discussed the menu with them. I have decided that the waiters aren’t being purposely rude. They probably are just not comfortable speaking English, which I can certainly understand. At least I have decided to give them the benefit of the doubt.

The rabbit was the most well-seasoned meat I have had since I have been in Europe. Well salted and tasting lightly of rosemary. I hadn’t had rabbit but once before (I seem to recall Darrel shooting one on the port property 30+ years ago and me cooking it.) But, I am trying to have different things than what I can get at home when possible. It was either that or the boar meat, and I have had boar sausage already.

Roast Rabbit

Not the best meal I have had but not the worst either. I left and walked home.

Thursday it is off to Fiesole and then the Uffizi Museum, finallly!